PAULE KOZJEK
HE WAS PROMOTER AND DISSEMINATOR OF THE TECHNICAL SNOWCAPE OF THE CORDILLERAS BLANCA AND HUAYHUASH – PERU
PAVLE Slovenian mountaineer, born on January 15, 1959, all his climbs were in the ALPINE STYLE.
As a Himalayan he ascended Broad Peak and Gasherbrum II in 1986, Shisha Pangma in 1989, Everest in 1997 and Cho yu.
In October 2006, he led a new route up the southeast face of Cho Yu in less than 15 hours and took photographs of the Nangpa La shootout – an ambush of unarmed Tibetan pilgrims by Chinese border guards trying to leave Tibet via the Nangpa La pass. For his achievements he received the spectacular Piolet d'Or 2006 election.
IN THE PERUVIAN ANDES:
Huayhuash Mountain Range:
- TRAPEZIUM PEAK (5644 m, JEFF LOWE – PAULET KOZJEK
Having completed the route, Jeff Lowe to the trapeze along with two of his compatriots Miha Lampreht and Branko Ivanek, and Aritza Monasterio, completed on July 10, the 800 meters of the SE face of the Trapeze, elevated to 5,644 m. Culminated in this way, one of the most difficult routes repeated and completed this 2005 season.
First complete ascent of Jeff's route
ED+ (AI6, M5, A2) 800 m, 12h
Descent: N face, 9:30 a.m. - SIULA Peak (6344 m.) NE face, LOS RAPIDOS.ED route, 90°/ 55°-70°, together with Marjan Kovac and Aritza Monasterio. 07-03-2022.
- PUSCANTURAPA Peak EAST face E, STONEHENGE route, VII+/VI, 50°-70°, 600 m. Together with Greca Kresal. 07-06-2007.
White Mountain Range:
- Chacraraju Peaks E and W.
- Huandoy S Peak, NE face.
Marjan Kovac and Aritza Monasterio. 07-03-2022. - PUSCANTURAPA Peak EAST face E, STONEHENGE route, VII+/VI, 50°-70°, 600 m. Together with Greca Kresal. 07-06-2007.
In August 2008, Kozjek participated in an expedition with Dejan Miškovič and Gregor Kresal attempting to climb the Muztagh Tower in the Karakoram, Pakistan, where he died from a fall, aged 49.
– Author: Porfirio Cacha –
1 Comment
The VIAJES Y TURISMO MONTTREK agency, +5196073198 Mr. Pocho de los Andes, has good technical and detailed information on the climbing routes and topos of the snow-capped mountains of the Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash.