On a day like today, September 13, 1950, the American mountaineer Jeff, considered one of the greats of world mountaineering, was born.
The first solo ascent was in 1979, a new route up the south face of Ama Dablam. In the eighties he continued making first ascents of Skyang Kangri (Pakistan), Kwangde, Kangtega and Tawoche (Nepal), and the first solo and winter repetition of Nuptse via the Southeast route.
Promoter of mixed and M grade climbing with the first Octopussy M8 (Colorado) in 1994. It was the first M8, an innovative mixed combination of ice and rock, thereby inspiring and motivating many climbers around the world.
In 1991 he opened the Metanoia route (VII, 5.10, M6, A4), alone on the north face of the Eiger, it was his greatest creation. In the opinion of many climbers of the time it was a suicidal route. This same year he spent nine days of winter in the terrifying Nordwand and emerged unscathed.
GOLD AX
In 2017 Jeff received the Golden Piolet for his great achievements as a climber, like other greats: Walter Bonatti (2009), Reinhold Messner (2010), Doug Scott (2011), Robert Paragot (2012), Kurt Diemberger ( 2013), John Roskelley (2014), Chris Bonington (2015) and Voytek Kurtyka (2016).
CLIMBING IN PERU.
In the Peruvian Andes I also do big climbs:
– Opened a new route or route in the snowy Trapezium 5644 m. (Huayhuash Mountain Range) on the southeast face, but unfortunately he retreated with 250 meters left before the summit, because I consider it the most extreme ascent of all his climbs.
– Together with Alex Lowe they repeated the Italian route (opened in August 1980), in alpine style (VI, 5.9, A1), of the Taulliraju peak 5830 m. on the southwest face in 1983 (Cordillera Blanca). In the photo the red route that was completed by the famous Slovenian mountaineer Paule Kozjek.
LOCATION OF THE SNOWY TAULLIRAJU.
The Taulliraju snow-capped mountain is located at the bottom of the Quebrada Santa Cruz in the upper part of the Taullicocha lagoon, on the north side of the small Unión peak. Travel by transportation from the city of Huaraz heading north of the Callejón de Huaylas to the city of Caraz, then take the detour towards the town of Cashapampa.
– Author: Porfirio Cacha –
