The French Alpinist Nicolas Jaeger was born on October 20, 1946. He ascended Mount Everest (88,848 m.) in 1978 together with his team Jean Afanassieff, they were the first to climb and then make the descent on skis. He has made more than 100 solo ascents in the Mont Blanc massif, including more than a dozen first ascents.
When Nicolás came to the Peruvian Andes, he made important first solitary ascents, such as:
WHITE MOUNTAIN
Snowy Ranrapalca 6162 m. on the SE face, Nevado Palcaraju 6274 m. on the SE edge, Huascarán on the NE edge. In 1978 Taulliraju 5830 m. along the SSE ridge, Abasraju 5550 m. on the E face, Huandoy Norte 6395 m. on the S face and the Chacraraju E (6001 m. ED, 650 m.) on the direct south face, Santa Cruz Grande 6259.
I spend 60 days at the southern summit of the snow-capped Huascarán studying the physiological effects of staying at altitude on the human body. He wrote a book on this topic “Carnet de Solitude”
HUAYHUASH MOUNTAIN RANGE
In 1979 he returned to Peru to make new climbs in the Huayhuash mountain range:
Ninashanca 5607 m. on the south shoulder. Yerupaja 6634 m. on the west face and south edge, Trapeze 5634 m. in crossing the west shoulder and the north face, the complete crossing of the Rasac summits 6017 m. And on the other hand, spending 60 days at the summit of Huascarán studying the physiological effects of staying at altitude; From his research he wrote the book “Carnet de Solitude”
YOUR DEMISE
On April 27, 1980, Jaeger was last seen at an altitude of 8,200 meters (26,900 ft) during an attempted ascent of Lhotse Shar in Nepal, where he died, aged 33. Canadian climber Roger Marshall on October 21, 1983 found Jaeger's body inside a tent less than 500 meters from the summit of Lhotse Shar.
– Author: Porfirio Cacha –
