On March 15, 1966, mountaineers V. Hoeman, D. Johnston and H. Robinson crowned the southern summit of the snow-capped Huascaran (6768 meters) by the normal route, with strong and icy winds, they only had sections of loose snow. According to our research, it has been the only winter expedition in the history of Peruvian mountaineering.
FIRST ASCENT TO THE SOUTH TOP
On July 20, 1932, the expedition of the Austro-German Alpine Club, led by Dr. Phillip Borchers, managed for the first time to reach the summit of the southern peak with 6768 m asl (height at that time). This expedition was made up of the German mountaineers Philipp Borchers, Wilhelm Bernard, Erwin Hein, Hermann Hoerlin, Erwin Schneider, and the Peruvians from Yungay Néstor Montes and Faustino Rojo.
Volviendo la vista desde el punto en que nos encontrábamos vimos con no poca sorpresa que dos hombres nos seguían en la ascensión: eran Néstor Montes y Faustino Rojo, los dos muchachos más hábiles que teníamos, los cuales manejando la soga tensa a la perfección hacían una especie de ascensión particular” y el Ing. E. Hein exclamó “Estos nacieron alpinistas”
FIRST ASCENT TO THE NORTH TOP
It was on September 2, 1908 by the American climber Annie Smith Peck in the company of two Swiss Guides, R. Taugwalder, G. Zumtaugwald and two porters from the town of Yungay.
Before reaching the summit, they made four ascension attempts in July 1906 without reaching the summit; They continue between the months of June to August 1907 and also fail.
Just one year later, on September 2, 1908, Annie Peck claimed to have reached the northern summit of Huascarán at 6,655 m asl, although there are still shared opinions about whether she had reached it or not. Later she claimed that she had surpassed the world altitude record for women.
The ancient name of the Huascaran was MATASHRAJU (MATAKSHU), it comes from the Ancash Quechua word MATASH, which means TWINS and RAJU (RAHU) means glacier, snowy or ice. Therefore it was called snowy twins or equals.
First promotions of Latinos.
– El 3 de agosto de 1953, la expedición peruana conformada por Félix Mautino, los hermanos Guido, Pedro y Apolonio Yánac y Macario Ángeles, lograron la cima sur. Al año siguiente, los mismos miembros de aquella expedición consiguieron la cima del macizo argentino Aconcagua, techo de América.
– El 8 de julio de 1953 ascendieron por primera vez a la cima sur E. San Vicente y M. Villavicencio en la primera expedición mexicana. El 3 de agosto de 1973, la segunda expedición mexicana conformada por Raúl Bárcena, Guillermo Díaz, Antonio Carmona y Vicente Hinojosa logran el ascenso por primera vez a la cima norte por la ruta normal o de ‘La garganta’.
CASAROTTO SOLITAIRE
In 1971 the first route was opened to the middle of the north face of the north peak, by the Italian mountaineer Renato Casarotto alone, being a very exposed route; He left base camp on June 6, 1977, remaining on the wall for 17 days, carrying around 40 kg of material and food, climbing each section three times (two uphill and one downhill) due to the special self-belay technique. adopted by himself. At 4:30 p.m. on June 21, 1977, the Italian climber reached the summit; It took another two days to return to the base camp from the west side.
En 1993, Battistino Bonali y Giandomenico Ducoli, dos montañeros y amigos del Padre Ugo de Censi, intentaron escalar la cara norte del Huascarán, a lo largo de la aun no repetida Via Casarotto con el eslogan “Subiendo alto para ayudar a los de abajo”. El 8 de agosto de 1993, cuando estaban a 200 metros de la cima y estaban descansando, fueron arrastrados por una avalancha que los mató y arrojó sus cuerpos 1300 metros cuesta abajo.
Slovenian road
Among the most important paths that were opened in the mountain in more recent years, is the one that was opened in two days, alone, by the Slovenian Pavle Kozjek on the south wall of Huascarán Sur in 1991 and its ridge, called Pot v Pekel (Road to Hell), by the Slovenians M. Kovac, B. Lozar and T. Petac, remounted in 1993 on the northeast pillar of the same wall.
– Author: Porfirio Cacha –